DIOR, JOIE DE VIVRE, LIGHTNESS AND FEMININITY AT PARIS FASHION WEEK SS27

Paris, September 29, 2026. In the Jardin des Tuileries, on a runway suspended over the water and veiled by a light mist, Jonathan Anderson presents Dior’s Spring Summer 2027. Trees, water and natural light accompany a collection that seems to want to free both the body and the clothes from any unnecessary weight.

Fashion becomes airy, imaginative, full of movement. Chiffon, organza, tulle, lace and sheer fabrics meet petals and appliqués that seem to move with every step. Powder pink, pale blue, white and soft yellow sit alongside stripes, Prince of Wales check and sudden metallic flashes. Skirts gain volume without becoming stiff, while menswear-inspired blazers and shirts enter the wardrobe without taking anything away from the femininity of the figure.

And this is perhaps what I like most about Jonathan Anderson‘s work. His woman feels no need to hide behind severe constructions or to masculinize herself in order to assert her presence. She is feminine, light, romantic when she wants to be, but never fragile. The clothes follow the body, accompany it, sometimes reveal it; the layering looks spontaneous, but behind that ease lies precise work on proportions, materials and volumes.

There is a lot of joie de vivre in this collection. You find it in the color, in the movement of a skirt, in a sheer panel, in a shirt left loose under a jacket, in the almost irregular lightness of the appliqués. Dior’s historic codes are also treated with greater freedom: not a copy of the past, but a different way of carrying some of its signs into the present.

Jonathan Anderson thus continues his dialogue with one of the most important legacies in French fashion, without letting himself be imprisoned by it. And this Spring Summer 2027 conveys above all one feeling: the pleasure of dressing, of being a woman and of showing it naturally.

 

GALLERY

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Sara Dal Monte

Sara Dal Monte
Digital Journalist | Photographer | Art Director
Los Angeles • Sure-Com America
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AFTER MILAN, PARIS TAKES THE STAGE

Milan has just switched off the lights and Paris is already under way. The Fashion Week dedicated to Spring/Summer 2027 began on September 28 and runs until October 6, with 68 shows and 33 presentations. Nine days in which practically all the big names of French and international fashion will take the stage.

The first day was given over mainly to the new generations; then on September 29 came Dior, Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent, and the tone changed immediately. Dior brought to the Tuileries Jonathan Anderson’s second Spring/Summer, still grappling with an enormous heritage to reinterpret through his own language. In the evening, Anthony Vaccarello turned the Trocadéro into a great golden stage, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, also celebrating his ten years at the helm of Saint Laurent. Two completely different ways of engaging with the history of a Maison.

Paris, after all, has always played a different game. Milan remains closely tied to product, craftsmanship, Made in Italy and brand recognition; here fashion more readily becomes performance, reaching for art, history and sets capable of turning a show into an event. That does not necessarily mean doing better. It means having another way of telling fashion, and that is also why moving from one city to the other continues to make sense.

And we are only at the beginning. The calendar has yet to bring out Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Loewe, Givenchy, Celine, Hermès, Valentino, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Big names, and inevitably high expectations.

Now we will see the collections. Because Paris knows how to build a spectacle like few other cities, but once the lights are off and the sets are taken down, what really interests me is understanding what remains of the clothes.

 

 

 

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Sara Dal Monte

Sara Dal Monte
Digital Journalist | Photographer | Art Director
Los Angeles • Sure-Com America
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