Milan has just switched off the lights and Paris is already under way. The Fashion Week dedicated to Spring/Summer 2027 began on September 28 and runs until October 6, with 68 shows and 33 presentations. Nine days in which practically all the big names of French and international fashion will take the stage.
The first day was given over mainly to the new generations; then on September 29 came Dior, Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent, and the tone changed immediately. Dior brought to the Tuileries Jonathan Anderson’s second Spring/Summer, still grappling with an enormous heritage to reinterpret through his own language. In the evening, Anthony Vaccarello turned the Trocadéro into a great golden stage, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, also celebrating his ten years at the helm of Saint Laurent. Two completely different ways of engaging with the history of a Maison.
Paris, after all, has always played a different game. Milan remains closely tied to product, craftsmanship, Made in Italy and brand recognition; here fashion more readily becomes performance, reaching for art, history and sets capable of turning a show into an event. That does not necessarily mean doing better. It means having another way of telling fashion, and that is also why moving from one city to the other continues to make sense.
And we are only at the beginning. The calendar has yet to bring out Balmain, Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Loewe, Givenchy, Celine, Hermès, Valentino, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Big names, and inevitably high expectations.
Now we will see the collections. Because Paris knows how to build a spectacle like few other cities, but once the lights are off and the sets are taken down, what really interests me is understanding what remains of the clothes.
