From Los Angeles, I watch the European shows with one constant question: what will we actually see on the red carpet? The Spring-Summer 2027 collections, from Milan to Paris, answer with a more relaxed femininity: light fabrics, new proportions, a sensuality that stops shouting.

On October 5, at the Grand Palais, Nicole Kidman lent her voice to the Chanel show, reading passages from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, while Matthieu Blazy presented the collection in front of Dua Lipa and Pedro Pascal. The next day, at the Louvre, Louis Vuitton gathered Zendaya, Emma Stone and Catherine Deneuve. Zendaya wore jeans and the white lace jacket she had already chosen for the Paris premiere of The Odyssey: proof that fashion and cinema keep watching, and borrowing from, each other.

The Return of the Skirt

At Prada the skirt is back in the spotlight: long, short, pleated or sheer. Miu Miu, Dior and Chanel followed, and Olivia Colman walked for Miu Miu in a black leather suit. I love a statement skirt with a man’s shirt or a tailored jacket. On red carpets, where long gowns end up looking alike, it would be a breath of fresh air.

Lightness and Sensuality

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson works with chiffon, organza and tulle in soft pink and pale blue; Blazy makes Chanel’s tweed softer and stretchier. These are clothes that follow the body without confining it, and after hours in front of photographers, you feel the difference.

Sheer fabrics stay, but the measure changes. Haider Ackermann, at Tom Ford, plays with proportion; Prada and Zimmermann use slits and light fabrics to suggest the body in motion. After so many seasons of naked dresses, I prefer a sensuality built on cut and materials, not on inches of bare skin.

The Great Houses Change Face

Blazy at Chanel, Anderson at Dior, Ackermann at Tom Ford: three different sensibilities taking on historic houses. Anthony Vaccarello, at Saint Laurent, relaunched the house’s tradition with huge golden chandeliers at the Trocadéro, carrying the gold onto the clothes as well. How much will all this weigh on the actresses’ choices? Kidman and Zendaya, from different generations, show that you can experiment and still stay recognizable.

From Paris to Hollywood

In the coming months we will see what really makes it to the red carpets of Los Angeles. I hope for more tailored skirts, fluid fabrics and less provocative sheers. A dress is beautiful on the runway, but it becomes style only when it meets the personality of the woman wearing it. That is what I look for, in Paris as in Hollywood.