On September 24th, during Milan Fashion Week, Jil Sander unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Not just another runway show: it was Simone Bellotti’s debut as the brand’s creative director. All eyes were on him, with the question hanging in the air — would he break away from the house’s DNA or remain loyal to its essence?
The answer was clear. Bellotti didn’t betray the spirit of Jil Sander. He embraced the pure, essential lines that have always defined the maison. Critics were quick to praise the decision: Vogue Business called the collection “very clear and light,” Vanity Fair described it as an “ode to minimalism,” while Another Magazine admired the strength and conviction behind such a consistent vision.
Here’s the thing: I’m not a fan of overly essential lines. That near-absolute restraint, that extreme neatness, doesn’t move me. And yet, I have to admit Bellotti didn’t play it safe in the lazy sense. He worked on material contrasts, sheer layers, sharp cuts, hidden zippers. He gave depth to a language that could have easily turned flat.
The result? Elegant, yes. Faithful, absolutely. But distant. There’s a sobriety here that borders on sterile, a cleanliness that leaves little room for surprise. Bellotti chose the safe route — the route of someone who knows Jil Sander was never about baroque flourishes — but in doing so, he delivered a collection that doesn’t quite spark emotion.
For someone like me, who loves fashion that dares and surprises, there’s a missing note. That spark, that detail that makes you think “this is me” never quite arrived. Still, I’ll give him this: Bellotti had the dignity not to distort the brand. Minimalism will never be my favorite language, but at least here it was handled with respect, precision, and consistency.
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SARA DAL MONTE 