LOEWE SPRING/SUMMER 2026

From Los Angeles, I followed Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection — the first designed by new creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schouler. It’s a major shift for the Spanish house, one that has always moved between fashion and art, between craftsmanship and provocation.

McCollough and Hernandez bring their American vision — precise, graphic, and disciplined — into a European institution.
The result is an intriguing hybrid: sharp tailoring, clean lines, and shapes that look drawn with a ruler rather than stitched with a needle.
It’s fashion that thinks — but rarely warms.

Watching from L.A., away from the lights and seduction of the live show, I could read the message more clearly. Loewe wants to evolve, to become more contemporary, more global. Yet in doing so, it loses a touch of that sweet oddity that once made it so magnetic.

There are strong ideas here: architectural volumes, rigid fabrics, sculptural accessories. Everything is immaculate, perfectly coherent. And yet — something’s missing. It’s not minimalism, it’s control. Not coldness, but distance. And when fashion becomes too cerebral, it risks losing its poetry.

Maybe it’s just a matter of time — every creative transition needs to breathe. But from where I sit, with a Californian eye and a heart that still beats for boho chic, I find myself missing a bit of freedom, a bit of imperfection — that kind of beauty born from the unexpected.

An impeccable collection, yes. But one still searching for a soul.

GALLERY